Celerina to Como - July 2001



St. Moritz

Entering St. Moritz


I started out on a clear and sunny morning. I followed the back road by a ski area up to St. Moritz. This was followed by a descent through town merging back to the main highway near Silvaplana. This became a lovely although somewhat busy stretch of road. Lake Silveplana was framed by the mountains.

Lake Silvaplana

Lake Silvaplana


Baselgia

Baselgia


Shortly after starting the steep descent from Maloja traffic was stopped for blasting of rocks that had rolled down onto the road.

Awaiting the road to open

Awaiting the road to open


Dam in background

Dam in the center is Lago da l'Albigna

Form St. Moritz to Chiavenna included an altitude loss from 1822 to 325 meters. Almost all the climbing on today's ride would come at the end. A link to the area south of St. Moritz showing the elevation profile.


Castesagna

Castesagna

Crossing the border into Italy, I climbed the hill to Castesagna. I came upon a group starting the descent from the border station. I noted several nice American racing bikes including a Calfee. One of the riders was wearing a Terrible Two jersey. This is a double century held in Northern California. One of the riders noticed my jersey and yelled, "Hey, it's a Spokesman". I asked the last rider pulling though about the group. He said that they were from the Santa Rosa, California area and were being led on day rides by a local. The local was a friend of one of their club members.


Falls along road

Falls along the road

I continued on the highway to the south edge of Chiavenna. I was running out of options for a convenient snack. I found a bar and pulled in for a beer, bag of potato chips and refilled my water bottles. I continued south on the busy main road. Traffic was moderate, but the motorists were courteous. After Dubino, I turned onto the secondary road to Colio. I continued through the small beach towns sometimes having to backtrack when I came to a dead end. I was trying to stay alongside the lake. At Bellano I stopped at the ferry station. They told me I would need to go to Varenna to catch the ferry for Bellagio. I continued south to Varenna and purchased carriage for myself and the bicycle (about $3 total). Lake Como has an extensive ferry system covering the lake. I had a 30-minute wait and spent the time eating gelato at the expensive cafe adjacent to the ferry.


Back at Lake Como

Back at Lake Como


Varenna

Varenna on Lake Como

At Varenna I caught the ferry for Bellagio. I wanted to visit the Madonna Del Ghisallo shrine/cycling museum/church.


South of Varenna

South of Varenna


Bellagio

Pulling in to Bellagio

Deboarding at Bellagio, I started the 5 1/2 mile climb up the hill to the shrine. It was hot and the sky was hazy. When I reached the 14% gradient sign, I felt it. The climb was pretty but much of it was exposed to the sun.


Beautiful mare and colt

A beautiful colt trying to nurse


View from the climb

My picture from the same vantage point doesn't compare to the one at the cycling shrine.


Helipad

Helipad serving the estates

Nearing Civenna most of the residences became estates. Several acres and privacy walls with nice landscaping. I wondered if these were the summer homes of the well to do in Milan.


Looking down at Lecco arm

View of the Lecco arm of Lake Como


The Cycling Shrine

The cycling shrine

Shortly I came upon the church. For not being marked with signage along the route, I was afraid it might be very small and I would miss it. Actually it was very visible and set upon about 5 acres. There were about 100 visitors, a statue of Coppi, a refreshment stand and a parking lot. I headed into the church and took a couple of pictures only to discover I was out of film. I had one roll of 12 shots and that was in the camera. My completed rolls were all 36 shots. I did a quick tour of the church admiring the bicycles and jerseys. I walked outside and an elderly Italian man inquired in Italian about my bike and me. I communicated the best I could that I was from the San Francisco, California area and had ridden to see the shrine. He was very pleased that I had taken the effort to ride up the hill and visit and gave me a warm hug. I walked over to the refreshment stand and ordered an ice cream and coke and bought postcards. It was becoming late afternoon and I needed to hurry to Como, check in and box my bicycle. A link with several pictures of the climb to the church.
Bike

Bikes on display

Bikes on display


From Magreglio it was a good descent down to Canzo where I turned to Erba. Around Albavilla the road became busier. The last 5 miles or so was on a busy main highway. Traffic was very heavy; it appeared to be their rush hour. The air was filled with the smell of spent diesel fuel. I arrived back at the hotel at 6:30 pm and was very pleased to find they had held my reservation. I checked in, placed my bike in the garage and carried the panniers and bags up to the room. I took a shower then broke the bike down far enough to get it in the backpack suitcase. I placed it in the room then walked over to the McDonalds. Normally I don't frequent McDonalds, but when on the road I love their Cokes and I was hot and parched. I ordered a large Coke with ice, fish sandwich and fries. I ate the meal and ordered another Coke and fish sandwich to take to the hotel. This I consumed while finishing wrapping and packing the bike and gear. I called my wife to check in, watched a bit of TV, then off to sleep.

The next morning I enjoyed another of their breakfasts, checked out and walked across the street to await the bus to the Malpenza airport. This time there were about 15 other passengers to share the bus with. Everything went smoothly until departure time for my flight. It was boarding time and they weren't calling us. The flight was delayed 2 hours due to problems with the air conditioning. The agent wouldn't tell us how long the delay would be so the passengers were all grouped around the boarding area anxiously awaiting news. This delay put us into Washington, D.C. too late to connect with the flight to San Francisco. They ticketed us onto a smaller Airbus 320 with every seat full. There was a one-hour layover. The flight home was uneventful but cramped and my earphone connection wasn't working, no sound for the movie or music on the ride home.

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